As a part of my service learning project,
the first cemetery I visited was the Old Jewish cemetery and museum in Prague,
Czech Republic. It is located in the Josefov, which is the Jewish quarter of
the city, and founded by Ottokar II of Bohemia. It dates all the way back to
the 15th century with the oldest grave dug in 1439 for Avigdor Kara.
My friends and I were actually on vacation in Prague and after seeing many
sights like the Castle, St. Vitus Cathedral and the John Lennon Wall, we all
decided that we should see the cemetery to supplement our research for our
project. It was at first startling to witness so many tombstones almost crammed
and piled on top of each other. Many of the stones were deformed and cracked.
It seemed as though nature and the progression of time took its toll on the
grounds with weeds and vines stretching around some of the stones. They simply
were not taken care of. It looked like something out of a horror film or a
backdrop for a haunted mansion but I knew there was a deep history that lay
behind the graveyard. It truly is unsettling. There are a variety symbols on the tombstones to remind
the living who is buried because it is not allowed to depict dead people in
Judaism. For example, the graves of musicians are marked with an inscription of
a violin. Scissors indicate a tailor. A crown indicates a scholar.
It
was interesting to discover that the number of bodies buried in the cemetery is
uncertain but it estimated to be 100,000 with over 12,000 visible tombstones.
Over a dozen burial layers exist because it is against Jewish Law to destroy
Jewish graves. New layers of soil were added on top of old gravestones
to make more space available. It was depressing to learn that new space was not
able to be purchased. One can sense this notion by just simply looking at the
crowded and tight nature of the cemetery. Like what Talia Shay stated in her
article Why Takes Care of the Loved
Ones?, “There is not treatment subsequent to burial, except for placing a
few small fieldstones on the grave for the memory of a loved one...
Traditionally, Jewish burials are usually simple, egalitarian, and almost
uniform.” It was a sign of disrespect for the dead if the stones were
tampered with in any way. The tombstones ranged from those of black Gothic, 16 th
century marble, Baroque and Renaissance decoration.
After
our visit, I decided to purchase a small clay souvenir figurine of a golem, an
artificial, anthropomorphic conjured through magic in Jewish folklore. I did
not make the connection until after our visit was over that Judah Loew ben
Bezalel is buried on the grounds. He is the late 16th century rabbi
of Prague who, according to legend, created a golem out of clay to stand beside
the Jewish people and defend the city from anti-Semitism and pogroms. The
monster later became violent and was ordered to be destroyed. It is one of the most famous, classic golem
narratives where the creature can summon the dead and become invisible. A great melancholy seemed to loom over the cemetery because I started to ponder
about and pity the families who have not been able to see the graves of their
ancestors buried deep beneath the other layers of soil. I suppose their spirits
are there anyway. I would feel greatly deprived if I was not be able to see the
grave of a relative honored, respected, or preserved.
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